Life on the water: The Toffin people of Ganvié, the lake city in Bénin

Life on the water: The Toffin people of Ganvié, the lake city in Bénin

Life on the water: The Toffin people of Ganvié, the lake city in Bénin

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Built entirely on Lake Nokoué, the city of Ganvié is a lake village located 25 km from Cotonou, the capital of Bénin.

Built entirely on the Lake Nokoué, the city of Ganvié is a lake village situated 25 km from Cotonou, the capital of Bénin. Known as the African Venice, it is inhabited by the Tofinu ethnic group, whose name translates to "men of the water." Here, you will find no roads or sidewalks, but rather stilt houses and countless pirogues, the only local means of transportation. Welcome to this extraordinary city…

Stories and legends

The city of Ganvié was not always inhabited. It was in the 1700s that men found refuge here. These were, more precisely, the Tofinu people (or Toffins), originally from Togo and Tado in southern Bénin, known as the « men of the water ». They arrived in Ganvié to escape the tribal wars of the kings of Abomey, who were then seeking slaves. And it was precisely because of this inhospitable environment that this ethnic group survived…

The origin of the city of Ganvié is also told through the legend of the crocodile. Indeed, the first inhabitants consulted the oracle before settling, and it allegedly predicted a future on the water rather than on land. According to the beliefs of the ancestral Vodoun religion, King Agbogdobé transformed himself into a hawk to explore the waters of this lake, then returned transformed into a crocodile in order to transport his people to what would become the lake village of Ganvié. Even today, the crocodile remains a sacred animal in Ganvié !

The men of the water

  Life on the water: The Toffin people of Ganvié, the lake city in Bénin  

As you've gathered, the Tofinu have mastered the lake to survive. They live primarily from fishing and have developed a unique technique: acadja fishing. These are fish traps made from branches. They form genuine shelters for lake fish that come to feed and reproduce there. After that, fishermen need only circle these traps with nets and collect the fish. This is how the Tofinu were able to increase their fish productivity. A fishing technique made possible by the topography of the lake, which resembles more of a pond given its shallow depth.

Difficult living conditions

With a growing population, a lack of job prospects, and sometimes difficult living conditions, the city of Ganvié faces several threats. As floods risk the collapse of stilt houses, abundant fishing and the presence of pollutants lead to the fragility of the lake's ecosystem. Not to mention the scarcity of drinking water and limited electrical installations… Living conditions are not always easy for Ganvié's inhabitants.

Toward new perspectives…

To help the people of Ganvié, the Beninese government (in partnership with the AFD) committed itself on September 26, 2019, to a program for the preservation and renovation of the city, as part of the government's action plan (PAG). The idea is straightforward: improve the living conditions of residents, increase income sources for the population, and develop tourism. In practice, the program includes dredging of the lake, restoration of certain homes, construction of a flood-resistant road, rehabilitation of the landing dock, fish market and community spaces, as well as connection to public water and electricity networks… A source of hope for the future of this remarkable lake village in Bénin…

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